Backpacking Vietnam from Hanoi to Ho Chi Minh City
Vietnam stretches over 1,600 kilometers from north to south, and traveling its length is one of the classic backpacking routes in the world. The country changes dramatically as you move south: the climate, the food, the architecture, even the way people speak. I spent a month traveling from Hanoi to Ho Chi Minh City, mostly by train, and found it to be one of the most rewarding countries for independent travel.
Hanoi: The Capital of Chaos and Charm
Hanoi’s Old Quarter is a maze of 36 streets, each historically named for the trade guild that occupied it — Silk Street, Silver Street, Bamboo Street, Herbal Medicine Street. The guild designations have largely faded, but the streets remain specialized. One block sells only shoes. The next sells only metal fittings. The organization is invisible until you notice it, and then you cannot unsee it.
The Old Quarter operates at a volume and intensity that takes a day or two to process. Motorbikes fill every alley. Vendors carry their entire restaurant on a bamboo pole balanced across one shoulder — pho in one pot, stools in the other. Crossing the street requires faith: step into traffic at a steady pace, and the river of motorbikes flows around you. Hesitate, and you confuse the system.
Eat pho for breakfast. Specifically, eat pho at Pho Gia Truyen in the Old Quarter, where they serve one thing — beef pho — and have been doing it for decades. The broth simmers overnight with bones, cinnamon, star anise, and charred ginger. A bowl costs 40,000 VND ($1.70). Your concept of what pho can be will permanently shift.
Hoan Kiem Lake anchors the Old Quarter. In the early morning, before the city fully wakes, the lakeside path fills with residents practicing tai chi, jogging, and performing group exercises to music. The Ngoc Son Temple sits on a small island connected by a red wooden bridge. Entry is 30,000 VND ($1.25). The temple is modest, but the view back across the lake to the city is worth the entry fee.
Ha Long Bay
Ha Long Bay is a UNESCO World Heritage site of limestone karst islands rising from emerald water. It is also one of the most heavily touristed sites in Vietnam. The experience depends almost entirely on which boat you choose.
Book a two-day, one-night cruise. A one-day trip spends most of its time on the bus to and from Hanoi and gives you perhaps three hours on the water. Two days lets you go deeper into the bay, away from the day-tripper crowds. Kayak through caves at dawn. Swim from the boat in a quiet cove. Watch the limestone towers turn black against the sunset.
The boat matters. Research recent reviews on Tripadvisor and Google Maps, not just the glossy photos on booking sites. A good cruise costs $120-180 for two days and is worth it. A cheap cruise costs $60-80 and will make you wish you had stayed in Hanoi. The difference is the quality of the boat, the food, the guide, and the itinerary. This is not the place to save $50.
Cat Ba Island, the largest island in the bay, is an alternative for those who prefer land-based exploration. The island has a national park with hiking trails, a hospital cave used as a secret bunker during the war, and beaches that are empty outside of the summer months. You can take a ferry from Ha Long City or a combination bus and speedboat from Hanoi.
Hue and the Hai Van Pass
Hue was the imperial capital of the Nguyen dynasty from 1802 to 1945, and the Citadel — a massive walled complex containing the Forbidden Purple City — is the main draw. Much of it was destroyed during the Tet Offensive in 1968, and the bullet holes in the walls are preserved as part of the history. The restoration is ongoing, and wandering the grounds gives a sense of what Vietnamese imperial life looked like.
Hue’s food deserves its reputation. Bun bo Hue — spicy beef noodle soup with thick round noodles, lemongrass, and chili — is the city’s signature dish. It is richer and spicier than Hanoi’s pho, with a deep red broth that stains your chopsticks. A bowl costs 30,000-40,000 VND ($1.25-1.70).
From Hue, the Hai Van Pass winds 21 kilometers along the coast to Da Nang. Top Gear famously called it “a deserted ribbon of perfection — one of the best coast roads in the world.” Rent a motorbike in Hue (150,000-200,000 VND, $6-8 per day) and ride the pass. The road climbs through cloud forest, then descends along the coastline with the East Sea glittering below. The ride takes about two hours if you do not stop, but you should stop constantly. Every curve reveals a new view.
If you do not ride a motorbike, the train from Hue to Da Nang covers much of the same coastal scenery from its own tracks, hugging the cliffs above the water. A soft seat costs about 100,000 VND ($4.25). The train ride is less flexible than the motorbike but nearly as scenic.
Hoi An
Hoi An is a UNESCO-listed ancient town with lantern-lit streets, tailor shops, and some of the best food in Vietnam. The old quarter is undeniably touristy — every other storefront is a tailor, a souvenir shop, or a restaurant catering to foreigners — but it earns the popularity. The architecture is a unique blend of Vietnamese, Chinese, Japanese, and French influences. The lanterns that fill the streets at night are not merely decorative. They are a local tradition.
Hoi An’s food is the highlight. Cao lau — thick noodles with sliced pork, croutons, and herbs in a small amount of savory broth — is unique to the town. Legend holds that the noodles are made with water from a specific ancient well and cannot be replicated elsewhere. White rose dumplings — delicate shrimp dumplings named for their resemblance to flowers — are another local specialty. Morning Glory, a restaurant run by a local family, offers cooking classes for $25 that include a market tour and instruction on four dishes.
Rent a bicycle from your guesthouse (usually free or 20,000 VND, less than $1) and ride through rice paddies to the beach. The ride is flat and takes about 20 minutes. The beach — An Bang — is decent by Vietnamese standards, with a few bars and restaurants serving fresh seafood. Go in the morning before the heat peaks.
Ho Chi Minh City
Ho Chi Minh City — still called Saigon by most residents — is Vietnam’s economic engine. It is faster, louder, and more overwhelming than Hanoi. Motorbikes fill the streets in densities that seem mathematically impossible. The energy is intoxicating, but it takes a toll. Pace yourself.
The War Remnants Museum is essential viewing for anyone who wants to understand Vietnam’s recent history. The exhibits on the American War (as it is called here) are unflinching. The Agent Orange section, with photographs of children born with severe birth defects decades after the war ended, is difficult to look at. The museum presents a Vietnamese perspective that most Western visitors have never encountered. Go in the morning when the museum opens, before the crowds and before the heat. Plan for at least two hours, and leave time afterward to decompress.
District 4, a short walk from the central District 1, is where Saigon eats after dark. The streets fill with plastic stools, charcoal grills, and cold beer. Banh xeo — crispy turmeric crepes stuffed with shrimp, bean sprouts, and herbs — are cooked to order on large round griddles. Com tam — broken rice with grilled pork chop, shredded pork skin, and a fried egg — is the city’s signature street dish. Both dishes cost 25,000-40,000 VND ($1-1.70).
The Reunification Express train connects Hanoi to Ho Chi Minh City over roughly 30 hours. A soft sleeper berth for the entire journey costs about $50. Breaking the trip into segments — Hanoi to Hue, Hue to Da Nang, Da Nang to HCMC — is more practical and lets you explore the cities in between. Book tickets at the station a day or two before travel. The official Vietnam Railways website is unreliable for foreign cards. Your guesthouse can usually arrange tickets for a small commission.
Vietnam is a country that meets you where you are. If you want a structured itinerary with clean hotels and guided tours, the infrastructure exists. If you want to rent a motorbike and disappear into the mountain roads of the north for a week, no one will stop you. The country has seen generations of travelers, and the hospitality infrastructure reflects it. You will be treated well, fed well, and charged fairly. The hardest part is leaving.